kurt's ride

more than a trip

2007-09-21T14:35:00.000-05:00

My ride was a wonderful experience in all respects. I travelled 11,200 miles, went through parts of 26 states and 6 provinces. I stayed in hot valleys, on cool mountain tops and next to oceans, lakes, and rivers. I got hot, cold, wet, tired, blown around, excited, lonely and scared. Almost everyone I met was kind to me and I experienced goodwill wherever I went. I had encounters and experiences that are stamped in my memory. I saw natural beauty, majestic views and unforgettable sights. I met new people I'll not forget, visited old friends I haven't seen for years and saw family that I don't see enough. It was better than wonderful and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I know I've had a blessed life, but I have no idea why. Not only was I able (time, money, health) to make this trip, but I had the support of my wife and the others I love. I had a lot of time to think, meditate and pray on the long open stretches. I spent time on mountain tops of emotion as I thought about my wonderful life mate, our sons, fine men all, and our 7 grandchildren, who own my heart. I wallowed in regret as I reviewed those injuries I have caused others. I rejoiced as I recalled my accomplishments and was saddened as I remembered my failures.

The journey was more than a trip. Not so much the journey of self discovery a young man might have, but rather a journey of self analysis, a time of introspection whereby I resolved to define those things I don't like about myself and either discard them or start the process. I do not want to be an old man set in my ways, I want to be better. In most ways I believe I have arrived at a place of contentment. I have forgiven myself for my mistakes and resolve to be more other centered. I believe these changes were taking place before I started this trip but the time alone reinforced my determination to be better. While I believe it is God's power that facilitates positive change it is up to each of us to do the work. In my view everything that is important in life has to do with relationships. Whether the relationship is with God, family, friends or strangers, the most beneficial thing we can do for ourselves is to improve each relationship. I believe the better I become at being understanding, non judgemental, empathetic and compassionate the more successful I will be at improving all relationships. I don't think I will stop being Kurt, but I hope I'll be a better Kurt.

I want to thank all off you who followed my trip, and all who made comments. Your support was an encouragement. I am leaving the blog up and will make periodic postings as I make other trips on my bike or with the "Aunt B" my hot rod.

currie-home

2007-09-18T06:54:00.000-05:00

We had a great time the last couple of weeks hanging out at our new North Carolina home. We enjoyed spending unhurried time together. As much fun as the previous 10 days had been, going from place to place was getting tiresome.

We finished decorating the place. I built a fire pit, cut wood and cleared some brush, all at a pace that made it fun. Sitting or hammocking on our massive screened porch while watching the pond for big blue was an edifying, meditative experience that brought peace to my soul. A pileated woodpecker hopped from branch to branch on a tree right in front of me. Sometimes it was so quiet even the slightest breeze created a whisper in the trees. At night when the sky was clear the only light we could see was the stars. When there was cloud cover it was so dark I had to feel my way around.

We had a wonderful party to celebrate Bill's (Barbara's dad) 84th birthday. I know he enjoyed having 4 of his 5 children there to celebrate with him. This is the first time I've spent more than a couple of days there and the longer we stayed the more like home it felt. Our plan is to have all of our children and grandchildren there for Thanksgiving.

I am looking forward to the final leg of my journey, more to complete the trip than the ride itself. I have ridden home from here twice before so I won't have any scenic surprises. Mostly I am excited about getting home to see my grand kids both in Santa Rosa Beach and this weekend in Louisiana.

I left Currie Monday at 7 AM with a plan to meet B in Darien, GA for the night. She took the Xways while I stayed on the coastal route. I got on I-95 just north of Savannah for the final part of the ride. About 9 miles from Darien I got off to use the restroom and as I tried to downshift discovered that my shift linkage had come undone. I called B who was behind me, so she stopped to help me sort out what to do. After fiddling with it for 20 minutes I finally taped it together knowing I could make it to the motel. After getting back on I-95 I saw a big Harley dealership sign showing a location 11 miles south of Darien. When we got to the motel I called the dealership and they said if I got there first thing they could fix it first thing. I felt like God knew I was going to have a problem and he had the solution ready for me. It seems to me if we are paying attention he does that a lot.

True to their word the folks at Golden Isle Harley Davidson in Brunswick went to work on "Bobbie J" as soon as I arrived at 9 AM. I was on the road before 11 for the last leg of my journey. I traveled familiar Georgia country roads and had a joyful time recalling the entire trip. I arrived home before 5 and was happy to have completed a journey that began over 2 months ago. It was a special present arriving home on my 63rd birthday.

My next post will reveal those changes this trip has made in my view of life.

heading home to currie

2007-09-14T08:02:00.000-05:00

We left Kennebunkport and headed west on the 31st. We took turns following each other, traveling the pretty country roads of New Hampshire and Vermont. We ended our day in the lovely little city of Bennington VT. just a short distance from the New York state line.

We continued west the next day through the quiet country roads of upstate N.Y. until we got to Albany where we got on the N.Y. turnpike. The traffic was not bad headed south considering it was a holiday weekend. The traffic headed north out of New York city on the other hand was backed up 16 miles south of the tollbooth. We arrived at our destination in Whippany, NJ just after noon. We lunched with Barbara's 2nd cousin by marriage, Ellie who will soon celebrate her 93rd birthday. We got to know Ellie when we lived in NJ nearly 30 years ago and she has become very dear to us. She is experiencing some health problems lately and we visit whenever we are anywhere in the area, knowing it could be the last time. Ellie never had children, has very few friends or family left and our visits are a highlight in her life.

After visiting for several hours we headed toward Hope, where we lived for 3 years before moving to Louisiana. Our destination was our good friend Joan Udell's home outside Blairstown. Joan became B's closest friend when we lived in NJ and has remained close. Joan lost her husband several years ago and has met, fallen in love with, and gotten engaged to Bruce, a retired Marine Biology professor. Barbara had met Bruce but I hadn't and was anxious to. Bruce is a big guy with many interests, most particularly insects. A engaging, intelligent man who continues his education at 68, Bruce is devoted to Joan, and treats her like a princess. We enjoyed a good visit, a fine meal, (mostly fresh NJ sweet corn), a good nights sleep, a apple pancake breakfast and were on our way toward the Delaware Water Gap by 9 AM. We wish Joan and Bruce a happy marriage and look forward to a visit from them this winter.

It was the Sunday before Labor Day and we were concerned that we might have heavy traffic, but were fortunate and experienced no delays. I wanted to ride the Skyline Parkway through Virginia so we were headed southwest. We missed our first chance to get on at Front Royal but found our way about 2o miles south. It was beautiful ride down the parkway with overlook after overlook. Riding the ridge is a fantastic experience because you encounter awesome views both east and west. As many miles as I have travelled over the last 2 months, I don't believe any of the views I encountered were prettier than the views of the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. During the ride on the Skyline we decided following each other was not a good idea because it was a distraction. BJ was particularly nervous when she watched me riding some areas with loose gravel. The Skyline ends at Waynesboro where we stopped for the night.

Because it was Labor Day and we had a long haul to our home in Currie, NC we decided to ride the Xways. B left about an hour before me so we wouldn't distract each other and once again we were fortunate, experiencing relatively light traffic. We were happy to arrive at our house located on five acres at Blue Heron Ranch where all of Barbara's family except one brother now live. Both of us arrived looking forward to a relaxing 2 weeks hanging out in the woods and visiting with her family.

old friends' faces in different places

2007-08-29T19:38:00.000-05:00

When we left Rangeley we headed toward Bangor/Brewer where Carole Gass and her daughter Shannon live. Carole was the pastor's wife at Life Tabernacle where we attended church during our time in Shreveport. Nate and Shannon were pals during their early childhood. We lived in the same neighborhood and we became good friends with Carole and Pastor Neil. Upon our arrival in Bangor ,we were happy to check in to a Howard Johnson's and take our first shower in 4 days. We arrived at Carole's house about five and visited for an hour before meeting Shannon and her husband Seldon at a Muddy Rudder restaurant on the Penobscot River. Carole was as kind, loving and interested as we remembered her. She and Neil divorced many years ago and Carole is a strong, independent woman who works very hard. She manages her brother's large dental practice, is pursuing her masters in counseling and is seriously involved as a grandmother. Her heart is about helping others and she does it well.

We had a wonderful time catching up on family news with Carole and Shannon. Shannon has turned into a beautiful and graceful young woman. She and Seldon have been married for two years, have his(son) and hers(daughter) children and seem to be very happy. We both liked Seldon and thought he seemed a good match for Shannon. All of them are very much involved with their church and happy with their lives. We were additionally blessed when Carole's mother stopped by during dinner bringing Shannon's 8 1/2 year old daughter, Lea. We had a fine meal (lobster again) and a fine visit. We got a good nights sleep before returning to Carole's for a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit and whole wheat blueberry pancakes with maple syrup. We left at 10, promising to stay in touch and headed for Camden to meet some more old friends.

Ken and Lauren Comstock visited the Maine coast about 5 years ago and fell in love with the area. They went back and bought a house and after summering for a couple of years moved to Maine full time. Lauren was a real estate agent with Davis Properties and after doing some business became our friends. We were sad to see them leave 30A but were happy to spend time with them in Camden where they have a beautifully renovated old house.

We arrived in Camden shortly after noon and met Ken at a corner gas station and followed his Vespa to their home. Lauren and their two beautiful Golden retrievers greeted us. After checking out their home and consuming a piece of Lauren's homemade (YUM) apple pie, we went for a drive checking out both Camden and Rockport, pretty harbor towns. It was Ken and Lauren's 17th anniversary and our 33rd the next day so Ken had arranged for a sailboat ride to celebrate. It turned out to be much more than your average boat ride. Ken had reserved the 80 year old, 57 foot Schooner Olad. Owner/Captain Arron Lincoln and 1st mate Sophie put us under full sail and we were soon heeled over and moving fast. The weather was perfect, and the wind strong enough to give us 2 great hours of sailing. Fresh strawberries, crackers and cheese, and a fine Cabernet enhanced an already perfect day. It was wonderful to be with good friends, sharing their enjoyment of the beautiful Maine coast they've made home. After the sail we had an early dinner at The Waterfront, a fine restaurant on Camden Harbor. The weather stayed perfect as we dined on the deck. Barbara had Crab cakes as usual and I had Lobster crepes. Both were excellent but the highlight of the meal for me was the massive, Roasted Pear, toasted nut, Montrachet and Cranberry Salad.

Ken has been battling advanced melanoma for the past couple of years and has just completed a course of treatment that will hopefully provide a complete cure. Ken and I are planning a motorcycle trip next summer if Lauren will let him buy a BMW 1200. Go Ken! Please pray with us for health restored and peace of mind for the Comstocks. Our time with Ken and Lauren was over too quickly and we returned to our beautiful room overlooking the harbor at Camden Harbor Inn. The inn has been in operation as a lodging establishment since 1874, and was a favorite of Walt Disney. The Inn has been recently remodeled including all the modern niceties while retaining the flavor of bygone elegance. Our room had a gorgeous view of the full moon as it reflected off the sparkling bay waters. After a wonderful nights sleep and the plushest bed in my experience, we were served a delicious breakfast of homemade granola, fresh fruit, and poached eggs on polenta and provolone with fresh farm vegetables.

We didn't leave Camden until 11 when we headed to Lewiston to pick up "Bobbie J"at L-A Harley Davidson. It felt good to be back in the saddle again. Barbara went on ahead and we met just outside Kennebunkport where we had reservations at The Colony Hotel , a grand old hotel that opened in 1914 and overlooks the Atlantic. We had no TV and no A/C but we did have king bed and a big closet. We were comfortable and enjoyed the ambiance of times past. Shortly after arriving we went for a shoreline walk were we soon came upon St. Ann's Episcopal Church, a gorgeous stone building on a point overlooking the sea.

We returned for our walk with just enough time to get ready for our dinner date with Neil Gass our Pastor in Shreveport and his wife of 7 years, Ginny. Once again it was great to catch up on all that had happened in the years since we had last seen Neil. He travels the country putting on seminars and for speaking engagements. Ginny pastors a Baptist Church in Sanford Maine, where they live. We dined at The Colony Restaurant where we all had lobster. The meal was good but the company better as we stretched the meal into a 3 1/2 affair. Neil is a little grayer but otherwise looked the same. He and Ginny seem very happy and comfortable with each other. We parted promising to do a better job of staying in contact in the future.

Rangeley Lakes and Toothaker Island

2007-08-28T14:15:00.000-05:00

Barbara picked me up in Auburn last Thursday and we headed for The Rangeley Inn. Rangeley is the main village in the Rangeley Lakes region, home to both beautiful lakes and mountains. We had a fine room at the Inn overlooking a pretty pond that drains into Rangeley Lake. Since we hadn't seen each other for more than 2 weeks we booked for two nights to have a little together time before heading to Toothaker Island and Lune's Nest, Linny and David's cabin. We had two wonderful dinners, at the Inn including a lobster celebration of Linny's __th birthday upcoming on Sept. 14.

We took our last shower for three days Sat. morning, then headed for Oquossoc, to meet Linny and David for lunch before boating to the island. David had towed his dingy across so we would have room for all of Barbara's luggage. When we arrived in Rangeley it had been wet and chilly, it was now hot and muggy, but the trip across the Lake Mooselookmeguntic to Toothaker Island cooled us off. 28 years ago Linny invested in an 80 acre parcel along the island's shore, that is shared by 11 other sailors. All the cabin/campsites are well spaced so that all have privacy. The big event on the island is an annual party that can last for weeks starting at the beginning of August. By the time we arrived the party was over and there were only two other families in residence.

"Lune's Nest" is small, but cute and well built. They spend 6 to 8 weeks on the island every summer without many of our normal creature comforts, but in an unspoiled and serene environment. While we missed having a hot shower, David has created a woodsman's version of the hot tub, consisting of an old claw foot tub mounted on rocks, under which he creates a wood fire. Both BJ and I enjoyed the experience.

We were happy to be able to meet some of the friends Linny and David have been telling us about for years. Larry, Heidi and Briana, Ron and Susie, Chet and Kara, made us feel welcome and at home. One thing we didn't do without was good food. All the meals were gourmet quality and both BJ and I added to our waistlines. The dinners are potluck and a great chance to hear stories from their sailing days while hanging around the campfire. I particularly enjoyed the quiet and the absence of artificial light. The sounds of the Loon's call in the evening was a special treat.

We spent time exploring the island, boating to the dam, and canoeing to a little island about 200 yards offshore. We had a fun and relaxing 3 days and slept well. David has built the Taj Mahal of outhouses so even the lack of modern plumbing was no problem for Barbara.

Thanks, so much L&D for a wonderful experience. Now we know why you are so excited to come to Toothaker every year. It is truly an escape from the pressures of modern life. "We'll be Back".

To Maine

2007-08-22T16:36:00.000-05:00

I left St. Johnsbury early, not because I had far to go, but because I was hoping to get to Auburn with enough time to check in with the Plummer family. The Plummers own W.D. Matthews Machinery, the Clark dealer. When I was Regional Manager they were my favorite dealer, both because they did a great job for Clark and for their customers. Bob has retired and son Scott is now the dealer. Even though it was a business relationship, with the Plummers you can't help but be personal. I spent a couple of hours with Scott, catching up on about 20 plus years of living. Funny, except for our kids all being grown up and our hair being gray, it felt like little time had passed. Scott remarked that I seemed the same, except more happy and peaceful. He's got that last part right. I hope to see Bob tomorrow, before "Queen B" arrives to take us to Rangely Lakes and a visit to Linny and David's island.

I am so excited about seeing my baby. It's like a second date feeling, when you think you are falling in love and you know she really likes you.

The ride to Auburn was fun and interesting. It was cool and foggy when I started, so there was little to see until about 10 o'clock. I began to come out of the fog as I climbed a mountain and back into it when I dipped into the valleys. At one point I stood high on a hill overlooking a valley to the higher mountains on the other side. I watched for about 15 minutes as most of the fog evaporated. I felt like I was watching the day be born. (

Check out the 1st 2 photos) I kept seeing signs for moose crossings, so I kept my eyes peeled. I wanted to see one but I surely didn't want to hit one. Neither happened.

After the first hour I was in New Hampshire and White Mountain National Forest. "The Whites", are home to Mt. Washington, the highest mountain in the northeast. Unfortunately Mt. Washington was totally fogged in when I arrived at the foot of the road to the top, so I rode past. New Hampshire is much like Vermont only a little steeper. I had a leisurely and enjoyable ride down gently winding mountain roads all the way into Auburn. Even Lake Auburn which is the water supply for the city and on the edge of town has a feeling of wilderness about it.

heading toward my honey

2007-08-21T18:09:00.000-05:00

I continued my ride down the mighty St. Lawrence almost to Montreal. South of Brockville the topography changed and the terrain leveled out. It was a tranquil ride as I went from village to village, each with it's own riverside park. There are lots of stone houses and stone churches. It reminded me of the houses and churches in Hope, NJ where we once lived. There were many small towns that looked like delightful places to live. I wound my way south of Montreal and got into northwestern Vermont just before 3.

Vermont is as pretty as I remembered. Her green mountains are indeed green, thickly covered with both evergreens and conifers. It is a much quieter beauty than than the Rockies. I headed southeast as I crossed Vermont, taking back roads. It wasn't fast travel but it was a fun and relaxing ride. I arrived in St. Johnsbury at 5:30 and headed to the tourist info. building. I asked about B&B's east of town and was pointed to Echo Ledge Farm Inn. It is an old farm dating to 1793. The old farmhouse is nicely decorated in antiques. It is very clean, comfy and homey, with modern plumbing. I love the sounds I'm hearing as I write this, while sitting on the porch across from Moose River, a boulder strewn stream winding down the mountain. I heard crows earlier, now it's the crickets. When I walked down to the river I scared a young whitetail, who bounded off through the woods.

I was greeted and shown around by Patty who handles the inn keeping for owner Ruth Nebrosky. Patty was very helpful and made me feel welcome. I needed to do a load of laundry and Patty was kind enough to do it for me. I appreciate Patty. They don't serve breakfast until 8;30 so I'll probably skip, though it is supposed to be excellent. I like it here and I like Patty so I'd, for sure, stay again.

Tomorrow I plan to get to Auburn, ME. I am excited because that is where I'll meet my honey Thursday.

the bad, the ugly and the good

2007-08-20T18:15:00.000-05:00

THE BAD

When I left Ingersoll I was not enthusiastic. As I was loading up the rain was coming in a steady drizzle. I knew that I would eventually ride out of it but was expecting at least 2 hours of rain. I was riding 401 the Canadian equivalent of our interstate. It was bad, but for only about an hour then the rain stopped. The sky was still overcast but the temp was in the 60's so I was comfortable.

THE UGLY

Mick had warned me that the traffic was heavy around Toronto, but I had no idea how unpleasant it was. 4 lanes of express, expressway plus 3 lanes of collector lanes was more than I expected. I've heard Toronto is a wonderful city but I only know the 401, and it was anything but wonderful. For 30 miles it was ugly with, loads of trucks, wild weavers and motor home behemoths.

THE GOOD

I was happy to get off the 401 at the quaint city of Port Hope. I got on hwy. 2, the coastal route and headed east along the north shore of Lake Ontario. I traveled through pretty farm country, including corn fields, dairy farms, vineyards and orchards, with occasional views of the lake. Quaint little town, after pretty little village greeted me. The hills rolled, the fields were green, and I was happy to be warm, dry and traveling pleasant roads.

In spite of the pleasing nature of the ride I wasn't seeing enough shoreline, so I turned south on rt. 33 Loyalist Parkway. The ride became more scenic as I hugged the lake shore. Cute coastal villages interspersed with stretches of farms overlooking the lake made for a pleasing ride. The villages of Wellington and Picton were postcard perfect. I finally came to the end of the road at Glenora and was treated to a 15 min. ferry ride across the Bay of Quinte. I continued on 33 to Kingston where it met Hwy 2 again. I had originally planned to stop around Kingston but the sun had finally come out and I was enjoying the ride too much to stop. Kingston sits on the shore of Lake Ontario where it connects to the St. Lawrence River, and as I traveled the rivers edge I soon came to The 1000 Islands Parkway. The banks of the St. Lawrence are rocky and the river is loaded with islands. Many of the islands are tiny, rocky, one house islands. It was a very scenic ride and exceeded my expectations. At he end of this GOOD day I ended up in Brockville, "City of the 1000 Islands" I stopped at the local tourism office to ask about B&B's in town and was directed to The Green Door. Two blocks off the main street I was excited to find an old church that has been newly renovated into a fine B&B. I was greeted by Lynne Meleg, who owns and operates The Green Door with her husband Peter. They have done an outstanding job of creating living space in the old sanctuary. The stage area formerly occupied by the pulpit has been retained, and provides an interesting focal point to the common living/dining area. My room, "The Boathouse" was clean, comfortable and as the name suggests decorated in a nautical theme. My breakfast of blueberry pancakes, bacon and fruit was delicious and satisfying. I would definately stay at The Green Door again.

After checking in, and unloading I walked to Water St. to find a place for dinner. I stopped at The Phoenix Bar and Eatery, planning to just have a beer before continuing my stroll. I got involved in a conversation with Jean-Ann and Jerry about the area and stayed for a Greek salad. Jean-Ann is a kind local woman who is proud of her heritage and her country.

I also enjoyed talking with Sylvia, the bartender. Sylvia is a world traveler who left a life in advertising so she could work some and then travel some. She is 49 and is getting married for the first time. Good Luck to her and Ralph.

comments

2007-08-19T20:17:00.000-05:00

For those that would like to make comments but haven't figured out how. Just click on the green area where it shows the number of posts that have been made on that posting, and a screen will come up where you can make a comment.

Please do!

memories, family, and friends

2007-08-19T15:53:00.000-05:00

This posting cover 3 days.

I left The Sylvan Inn, my appetite satisfied with a nice buffet breakfast, including little cherry turnovers. I headed immediately to Sleeping Bear Dunes scenic drive. It was a pretty ride through a thick forest with multiple overlooks and vistas. At the highest overlook I was 450 feet above the lake looking over multi hued dunes to North and South Manitou Islands. It was breathtaking. The sun was warming the breeze as it rose and I spent 30 minutes in Nirvana.

As I continued down M22 I had spectacular view after marvelous view. I either didn't remember or didn't pay attention to the beauty of the lake shore of my home state. I do remember climbing the dunes as a kid but not the views. Yet, while I continued south there were lots of other memories. I passed many of the little towns we visited when we spent time at the cabin. Buelah, Benzonia, Arcadia and Bear Lake where our Ma would take us for treats after cherry picking. Michigan is famous for the Great Lakes, but it has hundreds of wonderful inland lakes. The Lakes close to the shoreline were created at the same time the great lakes were, but as the lake levels declined the became separate. Arcadia Lake reminds me of Walton County's coastal dune lakes. It drains into Lake Michigan in a way similar to the way our lakes drain into the Gulf. I remember our Dad taking us fishing in Arcadia Lake and it gave me a touch of nostalgia as I rode over the end of the lake. But the biggest thrill for me was standing on the pier at Frankfort, an adorable coastal village. As I stood on the same pier I stood on 50 plus years ago with whitecaps braking over it's top, waves of emotion swept over me. In my minds eye I could see my brothers and I as we fished for lake perch with our Dad. I'm not much of a fisherman but when those perch were biting we were all terrific, as we pulled them in one after the other. I don't think I've missed my Dad as much in the 13 years he's been gone, as I did at that moment.

It took me four plus hours to travel the 70 miles from Glen Arbor to Dawn and Larry's. It had been a heavenly day so far and I arrived at just the perfect time to be served a heavenly lunch. BLT (home grown T)on whole wheat toast with horseradish sauce, delicious homemade tater salad and fresh Michigan sweet corn.

Dawn and Larry have a beautifully decorated condo, on a little cove off the Manistee

River just before it dumps into Lake Michigan. Larry has a berth right out his front door for his 38 foot cruiser/ fishing boat. My plan had been to just stop for a visit and head to Grand Rapids but after they showed me where I would stay( I had a whole floor), plus that her sister Linda and husband Allan were coming for the weekend, I was convinced to stay. We checked out Manistee, a industrial town that is becoming an upscale destination town, then Larry and I walked the neighborhood and beach. Linda and a Al arrived just in time to have a wonderful dinner with wonderful wine. My nieces are more like cousins in that they are close in age and we all grew up together. Al was my classmate in high school and Larry is one of Ryan's oldest friends. It was a wonderful dinner (including Larry caught Salmon) and a great reunion. I wish I could see these guys more often. I love them and they are a lot of fun. We went to bed late and I wanted to leave early. Everyone was gracious enough to get up and see me off. I was sent off with my 3rd consecutive gourmet meal at the Stauffer household. Real oatmeal with fresh Michigan strawberries and blueberries. I thank them again for their hospitality. This was a fine B&B experience. They know they are invited to visit us in Florida at any time, and I expect them, this winter.

It was 41 degrees as I left Manistee and didn't get comfortable until about 11. I was looking forward to surprising my sister Elaine, who I love dearly. She helped care for me when I was a baby and I've always believed she is special. Her five daughters have provided her and husband Ed with 45 grandchildren, great grandchildren and great great grandchildren. I think she has been a terrific mother, grandmother and daughter. I decided to give her 10 minute warning and I called from up the street and told Ed I was on my way. I wanted it to be a surprise and not a shock. We had a short but sweet visit and I felt buoyed when I left. Unfortunately she has had a few medical issues that have taken their toll over the last 18 months. Although she is still dealing with several issues she seemed less downcast and more positive than when I saw her last summer. I asking all my praying friends to lift one up for Elaine's healing. Thanks!

I really didn't expect to find my brother Fritz home because he has lake house where he spends a lot of time. Pam and Fritz live in the family home where we were raised. It is a good sized house on the hill, with a big yard. Regrettably, I forgot to take a photo. Luckily he was home with his wife Pam watching over a couple of his grandsons. We also had a short, but sweet visit and I headed for our friends, Mick and Sandy Kowolczyk's house about 10 miles from Caledonia. I had hoped to ride down the main street of Caledonia, my home town, but they had the street torn up installing a new sewer system. When I was a teenager the population was 737. Although main street hasn't changed much the area around town has grown a lot.

Mick is my longest running friend. I've known him since we were freshmen in H.S.. I've been around for a couple of traumatic times in his life. He was the QB and I was the center on the J.V. football team. When we thought he broke his neck during a game I went to the hospital with him. Another time he had his first heart attack while having breakfast at "Bob Evans", on class reunion weekend. I got him to the hospital in time in spite of a 10 K being run through the route to the hospital. I was in his wedding and he was best man when Barbara and I got married. Sandy is a hard working wife and mother that is as solid as they come. Mick is a lucky man to have such a mate. We had a great time talking about everything, but as usual, mostly about our kids and grand kids. With old friends like these, though a lot a time may pass between visits, the bond you have is the same. The time that passed disappears and you are as close as ever.

Once again I had a superfine B&B experience. In addition to feeding me dinner. Sandy got me some natural cereal and some fresh raspberries for a delightful breakfast. I left Sunday AM with rain falling. It was my plan to make it to Toronto but after 250 miles of riding in constant rain with the temp in the 50's I decided to stop about 80 miles short.

Thanks again to Mick and Sandy for their hospitality, and their friendship. We are looking forward to seeing them in New Orleans in Oct.

Great Lake Michigan

2007-08-16T14:01:00.000-05:00

There are perfect days! I just had one. Maybe I should say near perfect, because my queen wasn't with me to share it.

I left the shores of Lake Superior before 7 and headed toward Lake Michigan as the sun rose. It was quite windy and cool but not uncomfortable. By 8:30 I was on the north shore of Lake Michigan running US 2 which is part of the Lake Michigan Circle Tour. Most of this route was through Hiawatha National Forest so it was all gorgeous, remote shoreline. Some rocky, some sandy, some with high bluffs and some near sea level. The abundant green forests continued to populate the hillsides as I headed east toward the Mackinac Bridge.

The bridge was an adventure I didn't anticipate. I was prepared for the high winds, but I was not prepared for the ride all the way across on steel grating. Almost as soon as I cleared the bridge the remaining clouds cleared and I was in for a beautiful summer day. I continued the LM circle tour and got on US 31 which runs down the coast. From the lovely city of Petoskey south I had continuous scenic beauty. While the shoreline of the lake is not nearly as rugged as the Pacific coast, it is reminiscent. The bluffs are not as tall, the cliffs are not as rocky and the boulders are not as big. It is a graceful, subdued landscape, like a beautiful woman that has aged well. While enchanted by the beauty of the coastline, the pastoral splendor of the farms and orchards spread over the rolling hills was equally satisfying..

As I got closer and closer to Traverse City I became more and more nostalgic. The cherry orchards brought back memories of the summers when, while staying at my dad's hunting cabin we would pick cherries for back to school money. I don't know exactly where the cabin was but I recall the names of the villages nearby. Tomorrow I plan to ride through a couple.

Traverse City has grown and changed much in the last 50 years but it is still a pretty city on Great Traverse Bay. I passed through headed to and around Leelanau Peninsula. This is a very special place. Rocky shores, sandy beaches, inland lakes, orchards, farms, forests, vineyards, bays, coves, mountains, massive dunes, plus cute little lakeside hamlets, all in an area it takes less than 2 hours to circle. It seems strange referring to these huge bodies of water as lakes. As I stood on the shore with the winds whipping up whitecaps, and no land in sight, it was hard to believe I wasn't at the oceans edge.

After an awesome ride I arrived in the sweet little village of Glen Arbor. This little summer haven is surrounded by Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, where I plan a stop tomorrow. Ralph and Rose Gladfelder, innkeepers at The Sylvan Inn, where I am spending the night winter in Florida. The Sylvan Inn is a nicely kept, comfortable B&B that features a sauna and hot tub. I like my room, I like Ralph (I haven't met Rose), and I have high speed WiFi, so I'm happy. The Inn is two blocks from village center and four from the beach, so I was able to walk everywhere. I even found a hibiscus outside a local restaurant. My favorite place in Glen Arbor was Cherry Republic. It features everything cherry. Click the link and you'll see.

Tomorrow I'll continue my trip down memory lane, stop and visit my niece Dawn and her husband Larry, then on to Grand Rapids to surprise my sister. Don't anyone tell her I'm coming.

back to the USSA

2007-08-15T15:35:00.000-05:00

I left Winnipeg headed for a remote border crossing. There was nothing for miles around except a little duty free shop right at the border crossing. The scenery was uninteresting until I reached Minnesota Lake Country. I had lunch in Baudette "The Walleye Capital of the World".

From then on I saw a lot of pretty lakes and rivers. I saw thick green forests carpeting low lying mountains. I rode through those areas of Wisconsin and northern Michigan that have produced vast quantities of natural resources. Massive forests of massive trees were clear cut, leaving a barren landscape that has reforested, but sadly the virgin forest is gone. Iron ore and copper were mined heavily throughout this area in the first 1/2 of last century.

Throughout Wisconsin and into the upper peninsula of Michigan I rode as close as I could to the shoreline of beautiful Lake Superior. The southern side of the lake is a very old mountain range and provides some pretty views. These are not the dramatic views of the Pacific Northwest but are pleasing nonetheless.

Tuesday I slept in the unremarkable port town of Superior, WI, which lies across the bridge from Duluth, MN. My ride Wednesday was both pleasant and comfortable as the scenery became more and more picturesque. Michigan is my home state and while I may be prejudiced, I do believe the U.P. of MI is prettier than either MN or WI. My ride took me through both Ottawa and Hiawatha National Forests and enjoyed the day.

After riding the beautiful shoeline out of Marquette I landed in the little town Munising, MI.I am bedding down at a Holiday Inn Express, and I feel particularly smart because it has and awesome view of South Bay and Grand Island.

from the mountains to the prairie to the prairie

2007-08-11T17:36:00.000-05:00

It was 37 degrees and overcast when I left Banff at 7:15 after grabbing a latte and gasing up. Sun was in the forecast and although the mountains were still not visable the air felt dry and I knew it would get warmer eventually.

By 8 o'clock I was literally in the clouds and crossing the continental divide. I was heading to Kootenay National Park, home to Radium Hot Springs. It was 2 hours and 90 miles before I saw the sun or a mountain top. On the other hand, as I travelled the Kootenay Parkway, I did see a caribou grazing beside the road. I also saw how a forest fire can change a lush green forest into a bunch of ugly sticks. The most exciting thing I saw was a big black bear running across the road in front of me.

I didn't stop to "take the waters" at Radium Hot Springs, but I did stop for breakfast. I was cold and 3 bikers I met coming from where I was going said it didn't get any warmer. A mountain peak peeked through the clouds just as I came into RHS but, when I left it was all clouds again. As the air began to warm the clouds began to burn off. As I rode a ridge between two mountain ranges the clouds began to creep up the mountain and I could see about 1/2. Another hour and all but a few wispy clouds were gone and I had a comfy and scenic trip the rest of the way. I saw more mountains, these wider spaced but equally as impressive. I saw more rivers and mountain lakes. I was a little sorry about all the views I had missed because of the overcast skies I had experienced but, at the same time, very thankful for all I had seen. By 2 o'clock I was headed back over the divide to Alberta.

As I crossed the mountain I came upon Alberta's largest coal mining area. I saw a sign that said "World's Largest Truck". I had to stop and take a photo for Luke. He would love this monster. It is a Terex Titan and was retired from use in the coal mines in 1990.

Part of Alberta's mining area is The Crownest Pass. This area is home to the town of Frank. In 1903 a limestone mountain came crashing down, burying 1/2 of Frank and killing 70 people. This is known as Franks Slide and the road I was riding passed though it.

Shortly after coming down from the mountain I was in the prairie. The hills flattened out and farms began to appear. I landed in the town of Lethbridge for the night.

Sunday I road the prairie all day. Alberta had wheat, corn and soybean fields as far as the eye could see. It also had some wind farms. Saskatchawan had gently undulating, grass covered terrain for miles and miles and miles. About an hour out of Regina the land flattened out again and there were more wheat fields.

After the beauty of the ever changing mountains the sameness of the prairie quickly became monotonous. The ride was not boring however, because of the brutal, unrelenting cross wind. There is nothing to stop it and nothing to slow it down. The way you deal with a cross wind on a bike is to lean into it. I spent most of the day tilted at about a 30 degree angle.

I found a hotel in Regina and since I couldn't get the blog to load on blogger, I went to the Casino. I played 3 card poker for a couple of hours and won a little As I was leaving there were two young men outside looking for some help. They had spent their money and were trying to get back to Toronto. I gave them some of my winnings and they were very appreciative. As they shook my hand and thanked me one of them said, "I won't forget you, you're an angel". I'm no angel but it made me think how easy it is for any of us to be someone's angel when we get the opportunity. I really didn't feel like I had done anything special. I just felt that I had played my little part in God's plan to help get these guys home. Jesus said, "whatever you do for the least of my brethren, you do for me". I want to see everyone as if they are Jesus, and treat them accordingly.

Banff in the rain

2007-08-10T17:13:00.000-05:00

It was raining when I got up and spent most of the day raining. I ignored the drizzle and headed to Banff Hot Springs for a soak and a massage. It was worth the 15 minute trip. I enjoyed the soak and had one of the best massages I've ever had. The Pleiades Spa is located at the hot springs so I only had to undress once.

The sky continued to be overcast, hiding the mountains and killing any sightseeing possibilities. What I had planned on being a day of exploring the park turned out to be a day of rest. Because of the weather and construction on the main street the sidewalks were crowded with window shopping tourists.

Jasper to Banff

2007-08-09T16:12:00.000-05:00

I fell asleep at 7:30 and didn't get up until 5:30 so I felt well rested and ready to ride. I was concerned about the possibility of more rain and wanted to get going at first light. That was before I went outside to biting cold. It was about 38 degrees and the sky was overcast, but I didn't see any rain clouds. I layered up and went to check out. As I was getting ready to leave a bellman asked me if I was headed for Lake Louise. I answered in the affirmative and he replied "be careful, it snowed in the high passes last night". It was just what someone on a motorcycle, and headed for the ICEFIELDS Parkway needed to hear. After starting south the clouds parted and I could see up the side of the mountain now covered with snow, where the day before only the peaks were white.

As I headed toward the Columbia Icefield, the crown jewel of Jasper National Park, the air was cold and the skies were gloomy but I was determined to keep moving. About 50 miles later I began to see some blue sky through the clouds but the mountain tops were still covered with clouds. I was content to follow the hills and curves as I wound up to higher elevations. As with many mountain roads, "Icefields Parkway" follows a river. In this case the Athabasca River, which flows from the ice fields containing Athabasca Glacier. As I got closer and closer to the ice fields the clouds continued to clear and I could begin to see some mountain tops. It was getting colder as I gained elevation, but the sun shine mitigated the colder temps.

So much green forest, many spectacular mountains, many rock strewn creeks rushing down the mountain, made any discomfort the weather created worthwhile.. Massive glacier topped peaks, creating jade colored rivers rushing to emerald mountain lakes, waterfalls coursing down the rocky mountainside and adding to the flow, are enough to take the breath away. The color contrast of the turquoise river against the evergreen forest as it headed down the mountain was so dramatic that it seemed contrived, created, as if it were the result of some kind of computer color enhancement process.

The Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Glacier were spectacular as expected. I went up onto the glacier when we were here with Nate & Katie about 5 years ago, so I passed this time. I was as impressed, as before, with the immensity of the glacier, while I was saddened by the fact that it has lost 2/3 of it's mass in the past 150 years. Do you think maybe the planet is warming? Duh!

Shortly after leaving the ice fields I entered Banff National Park. The transition is seamless except for a sign. My next destination was Lake Louise, a beautiful high mountain lake, it's backdrop being the convergence of two mountains that is prettier than any picture. The travel toward LL was exciting as I rode close to the tree line with clear views of mountain peaks and glacial fields. Just as I arrived at the village of Lake Louise the sky clouded up and I felt rain in the air. I had lunch and went up the hill to view the lake. The lake was as beautiful as remembered, with a view second to none. As I walked back to "Bobbie J" it started to rain. I put the rain gear on and headed out . I knew I only had about 40 miles to go so I was not disheartened. The ride to Banff was wet but pretty. The rugged beauty of Jasper gave way to a gentler backdrop. Instead of rocky, shear cliffs, there were green fields mixed with evergreen forests.

Banff is a friendly, well kept tourist town. Because of the Sunshine ski area nearby it is a year around resort. The upside is that there are many fine shops and restaurants. The downside is that there are too many tourists and too many tour buses.

I was happy to arrive at the Blue Mountain Lodge and get out of the rain. The lodge is owned and operated by Louise and Pascal Dell-Courtemanche, who just took over in Jan. I was shown to the "Cowboy Bunkhouse" room, with a private entrance, which I like for getting my stuff in and out. I love the way the room is decorated, with bearskin, cowboy hats, saddles and the like covering the walls. Like many old buildings this one has it's idiosyncrasies, but my room is warm, quiet,clean and comfortable. The two things I didn't like were; I only got 1 tiny bar of soap, and there were no available electrical outlets except in the bathroom. Breakfast is a continental style buffet of cereal, pastries and fruit. Pascal and Louise are doing their best to make improvements but are having a hard time finding people to do the work. The lodge's proximity to the town center makes it an ideal location for walking to almost everything.

I spent a couple of hours walking around before settling on a restaurant for dinner. Saltlik "a rare steakhouse" was highly recommended by Louise, and it looked interesting, so I gave it a try. The menu is extensive but I decided to go with the new york strip. The steak was cooked just right and was as flavorful as a steak can be, but the real treat was scalloped potatoes, which, Frank, my waiter recommended. Since I was walking I ordered a bottle of David Bruce pinot noir which was excellent and provided a nice compliment to my steak. (Dr. V , I only do this occasionally.)

From the moment Frank greeted me until I left I was treated well. Instead of saying I'll be your server as most waiters do, Frank said "I'll be your caregiver", and he was. Frank ranks as one of the best waiters I've ever had. Attentive, but unobtrusive, he was there when he needed to be. Not only did he serve well, but he showed a sincere interest in all those he was serving. Sometimes eating alone can be lonely and boring, but watchng Frank kept me entertained. As I told Frank, he elevated my dinner from a fine dining experience to a memorable one. He told me he is an aspiring writer with a couple of screenplays in the works, so I wish him well with that. I highly recommend Saltlik.

In spite of a whole bottle of wine I found my way back to my room and crashed.

Kamloops to Jasper

2007-08-09T06:46:00.000-05:00

As I prepared to leave Sunpeaks Resort I dressed warmly. The weather forecast predicted a low of 39 and a high of 59. Rainstorms were forecast for the mountains and I wasn't looking forward to riding wet mountain roads. When I headed out however, the sun was shining though the air was cool. I praised the Lord and told myself enjoy it while it lasts. I asked God to protect me and believed that he would.

The road from Kamloops north is Yellowhead hwy. # 5, and although it is only a 2 lane rd. with some passing lanes, it is a good road with wide shoulders. Since it is the ONLY road it was heavily populated by trucks and RV's. The occasional passing lanes were helpful and I made good time. The first 1/2 the ride was sunny and scenic as the road wound between the mountains from valley to valley. The last1/2 the ride was overcast but even more scenic as the valleys' narrowed, the mountains got taller, and vegetation was all evergreen forest. At about the halfway point I stopped for gas and as I was fueling up a couple of bikers pulled up coming from the direction I was going. I asked one if there was rain ahead. His reply as he grinned was "oh yeah, there was a downpour." I asked how much further I had before I hit it. He said, "when you get to the junction and head toward Jasper." About 20 miles before the junction with Yellowhead Hwy. 16 the sky got darker and I felt some sprinkles. I stopped, put on my rain gear and kept rolling. Thankfully, I got only sprinkles the rest of the way to junction, and felt like God was moving the clouds just for me. The sky was still overcast, it was still sprinkling, and the sky over the mountains ahead looked menacing. At the same time the scenery was spectacular. Snow capped peaks, waterfalls, and rushing rivers took my mind off the unpleasant weather for awhile. About 40 miles from Jasper the rain began to fall steadily. It was cold and the raindrops seemed huge as they smacked my face. I had 20 very unpleasant miles before the rain tapered off and returned to a sprinkle.

I was happy to arrive at Jasper Park Lodge, which is operated as a Fairmont hotel. The lodge is a group chalets and log buildings dating from the early 1900's that are well kept and beautiful. The main lodge building faces Lac Beauvert and the mountains beyond, providing a scenic backdrop from the Emerald Lounge where I had an early dinner. The emerald color of the lake is so spectacular that it seems unreal, as is part of a fantasy world.

In spite of the rain and the chill of the rain I was thankful for a safe and scenic ride. I'm looking forward to seeing more of Jasper National Park and it's Columbia Icefield tomorrow.

BC Day and the day after.

2007-08-07T22:11:00.000-05:00

We left Victoria early Monday and had to catch the the 8 o'clock ferry because it was a provincial holiday, BC Day. "Bobbie J" was ready so we went directly to Trev Deeley Harley to pick her up. The B&B Barbara reserved was located in a nice quiet neighborhood across False Creek from downtown.

Once we got settled in we went for a long walk. Vancouver is truly the most appealing big city we've ever visited. This is our third visit and it didn't disappoint. We crossed the Cambie Bridge and headed for Yaletown, a former warehouse area now populated with trendy shops and restaurants. Because it was BC Day much of the city was shut down, which made the walk almost traffic free. After walking about 2 miles we were thirsty so we stopped at Yaletown Brewing for a brew and lunch. The beer was excellent, the salmon salad was very good and the chicken salad was mediocre. We walked some more and ended up on the city side of False Creek. There is a long walkway with parks, playgrounds and sporting facilities that winds its way along the creek. The weather was warm, dry and breezy, in a word awesome. Many were sunning themselves in the parks, biking the separate bike path, or just taking a walk, like us. We ended up walking over five miles and returned to our B&B The Manor House. We ordered Pizza takeout and retired early.

The Manor House is a large older early 1900's house that was restored/remodeled in 1991. It is very traditional and decorated with antiques and period pieces. It is showing a little wear but was very comfortable and quiet. The location and a reasonable price make it a good value. Thanks to the young ladies preparing breakfast, who were kind enough to feed us at 6:30 so we could leave by 7:00. I kissed my baby goodbye and she headed for the airport, while I headed for the Canadian Rockies.

My destination was about 30 miles north of Kamloops at a Sun Peaks Resort, a ski resort I found on Expedia at a reasonable price. The first 1/2 my ride was cold and misty. I actually rode through the clouds for a time. The second 1/2 of the ride was warm and sunny and put me in a good mood as I climbed the mountain road to Sun Peaks.

I arrived at Sun Peaks not knowing what to expect, but because the rate was reasonable I didn't expect a place as nice as I got. The Delta Hotel at Sun Peaks is very nice and is reasonably priced because it is off season. I got some hot tub time, made resv for the next 3 days and went to dinner at Bella Italia Restaurant. I had good pasta with more Italian sausage than I could eat.

I am going to bed happy and tired cause I just heard from BJ and she made it to Ft. Walton safe and sound.

Victoria, my baby and me!

2007-08-05T18:01:00.000-05:00

Barbara finally got into Vancouver at about 10:30 Wednesday PM. The next morning we caught the 11:00 ferry to Victoria and got to our nearly new condo in downtown Victoria about 1:30. We were greeted by our hostess Heike Smith who showed us around the building and gave us some "what to do "tips. We had views of both sea and mountains from our balcony on the 9th floor. As lovely as our condo was it is apparent that a condo boom in Victoria is underway and I fear the beauty of the city will be diminished.

From the first minute we arrived in Victoria we were impressed. It is a beautiful city, built along a beautiful shoreline, with a lovely harbor and outstanding vegetation. We were delighted to find a happy place, populated by the most polite people that I've ever encountered in a large city. The traffic is relatively light, there is good public transport, and many either bike or walk. In the winter the temp. rarely gets below the mid forties and in the summer rarely gets above the high seventies. The views of both the water and the mountains are fantastic. Victoria is the provincial capital of British Columbia and has a lovely, copper topped parliament building on one side of the harbor and the most impressive Empress Hotel facing the harbor.

On our first day we did little except walk around and get reacquainted after a 3 week separation. Friday we went whale watching with a crew from Prince of Whales. It was exciting and exhilarating. It was a fast cool ride out about 45 min. There is a pod of Killer Whales (Orca) that live in the waters between Vancouver and Victoria so the captain knew where to find J pod. We had many great sightings of the entire pod but were especially excited when the biggest male in the pod distanced himself from the others and came within about 5o yards of us. He is about 10 tons huge, he is beautiful ,and he eats about 300 lbs of fish a day. The ride back was just as fast and cool except we we able to stop and see a few harbor seals sunning themselves.

After walking around some more we came upon a restaurant that Heike had recommended. We looked at their menu and decided to make a reservation. Niche is a very hip, modern restaurant in a beautiful old house, very close to the harbor, in a mostly residential area. We had a snapper dish that was served atop a delicious crabcake, with cucumber slaw. We also had a zucchini flower stuffed with crabmeat and lightly deep fried. (makes me hungry writing about it) The dessert was a killer tiramisu served parfait style with fresh blueberries and strawberries. It was all very tasty. Courtney, our pretty waitress, turned out to be a film student and is a big fan of Clark and Michael, the web sitcom that Nate was a cinematographer for.

Saturday I got an early massage, which I really needed. BJ met me at the spa and we headed for the Royal Tour Line bus. The ride around Victoria, seeing the neighborhoods, the parks, the shoreline, the views, and old town reinforced the impression that this is not only a wonderful place to visit, but an equally wonderful place to live. After the tour we walked for miles, then went to see The Bourne Ultimatum. We both enjoyed seeing Jason Bourne kick butt in the third Bourne installment. In my view it was as good if not better then the others.We had and early dinner and an early to bed.

Sunday we slept in, then headed to "old town" looking for a sit down breakfast. We found it at rebar modern food. This is undoubtedly the coolest vegetarian restaurant I've ever dined at. BJ had the "Eggs Kerosowa" and I had a cooked oatmeal wholegrain cereal sweetened with maple syrup and topped with almonds and a apricot compote. They were both wonderful. They had vegan dishes as well as egg dishes. Dwan and Solomon would love this place. Check out their menu.

After our nap we went looking for a steak. After a diet heavy on seafood for the past 3 days we both had a hankering for a piece of beef. Just 2 blocks away we found Barkley's Steakhouse, advertised to have the best steak in town. No question it was a good steak, but the real culinary treats came from the pastry chef. Both the goat cheese tart with the fresh local cukes and roma tomatos and the fresh fruit tart with ice cream were "out of sight". We both agreed this was the best meal we had in Victoria.

Vancouver

2007-08-01T17:48:00.000-05:00

I know I said I was going to suspend my posting for a few days, but I just talked to BJ and she missed a flight, so I'm filling the time. Vancouver really is a lovely city. It is so international, and very Asian. I don't know the demographics but, I wouldn't be surprised if people of Asian descent are a majority here. It is very clean, with good roads.

I took "Bobbie J" to the Harley dealer for service this morning. After dropping it off I got a cab back to the hotel. My driver was a fiftyish man of Indian (India) ancestry. He wore a turban and spoke with a strong accent. He is from Punjab and said his family speaks Punjabi at home, explaining that he wanted his children to learn his native language. He has been in Vancouver 18 years and has raised his family here. He was all excited about India's most famous singer ???, being interviewed on the radio and the fact that he is going to see him perform Saturday. I had a hard time understanding everything he said but I loved listening to him talk. He was in a very good mood and the lilt in his voice was edifying. I know there are 22 recognized languages in India. I wonder if they all have a different accent in English. If someone knows, let me know.

I've got a rental car and we are taking the ferry to Victoria in the morning

I'll do a post about our visit to Victoria next Tuesday.

Thanks, for listening!

Vancouver

2007-07-31T15:53:00.001-05:00

I stayed last night in the town of Aberdeen, WA. It is basically a grubby, logging town with no appeal. My object today was to get to Vancouver so I can put "Bobbie J" in the shop for service and get ready for Barbara's arrival. I can't wait to see my baby. I'm here.

Check out the comment from my sweet, beautiful, granddaughter, Bella. She's the best.

This will be my last post for awhile since I will be devoting my time to Queen B.

2007-07-30T20:06:00.001-05:00

As I headed out of Newport this Am I had a smile on my face. The air was cool, but the sun was shining, with only a few wispy clouds in sight. The scenery through northern Oregon continued to be spectacular. More beautiful beaches, more expansive bays, more rivers flowing to the sea, more pretty lakes. The further north I went the less dramatic the mountains were. But, as the mountains turned into hills the terrain became more habitable. I have never seen so many state parks and state beaches. The public lands here are all beautiful and well kept. Oregonians should be proud.

Once again I didn't make many miles, but I saw a lot of nature. Not to far north of Newport sits the little town of Depoe Bay, supposedly having the world's smallest harbor. It is small! I saw a coffee shop so I stopped for a latte. The coffee shop sits amongst a row of shops on one side of the road and the other side of the road fronts the Pacific on a high bluff. I walked over to take a picture of the coastline and a lady standing there said, "did you see the whale?" I said, "no, where?" She pointed to a place at 11:00 in relation to a marker buoy. We visited as we watched and she kept saying, there, every time the whale would come up and blow. I saw the whale blow 3 times, she saw it 6. It was a unexpected treat. Her name is Patty and she let me take her picture.

Between Pacific City and Rockaway Beach there are secondary roads that continue along the shoreline while US 101 stays inland. This is route is called, 3 Capes Scenic Drive. It is extremely an scenic route and an extremely bumpy one. I do not recommend it for motorcycles. This route connects Cape Kiwanda, CapeLookout, and Cape Meares each with it's own state park.

On this drive I stopped at the delightful town of Oceanside, which starts at a lovely beach and goes up the side of the hill, the town over looks a small bay dominated by three massive rocks growing from the ocean. It was a pleasent and scenic setting for my lunch at Roseanna's Cafe. I had some delicious clam chowder and a fresh salad with homemade blue cheese dressing. Yum Yum! It was made with big chunks of chewy clam in what I consider new england style. The menu just calls it clam chowder.

I continued north , headed for the mighty Columbia River. I crossed the river on the Astoria-Megler Bridge, which rises high above the river. As I approached it I was a bit intimidated because of the winds I had experienced crossing much shorter bridges, crossing much narrower rivers. It was windy but nowhere near as windy as yesterday.

Once I crossed into Washington and road along the Columbia 101 turned away from the sea and ran through flat marshland, watersheds and pasture land. Here the rivers move slowly and meander toward the ocean. There are many sloughs, and shallow bays. Everywhere there is not a waterway or it's immediate environ, there is forest. This forest is mostly timberland in it's 2nd or 3rd growth of fir and hemlock.

Oregon and so far Washington, are GREEN, GREEN, GREEN. In both Oregon and so far Washington, I have been riding through Tsunami Hazard Zones. Instead of Hurricane evacuation routes, they have tsunami evacuation routes. All routes point up the nearest hill. It just goes to show, everybody has something to worry about.

oregon's awesome southern coast

2007-07-29T19:09:00.000-05:00

I got a late start working on yesterday's posting, having breakfast, and visiting with Michael. Michael and Cheryl have a vision. They are planning on a medical ministry in Fiji, God willing ,in five years time. I asking all of my praying friends to lift one up for M & C that God honor the desires of their heart.

By the time I rolled out it was 10:30. I had to stop at the first beach I came to and add a shirt. I only travelled 220 miles today and it was both heaven and hell.

Heaven:

The southern Oregon coastline has a unique beauty that is often breathtaking. Beautiful beaches, some in small hidden coves with shear cliffs, some spreading out from river banks, some with huge boulders and rock formations, some with long stretches of light sand. Running along the side of the mountain, glancing down to see the waves crash against the cliffs, is a thrill you can only feel on two wheels. From one beach to the next up the mountain and down the mountain. Huge boulders and rock formations project from the sea like spacecraft ready to blastoff. The vegetation is lush and green, with evergreens growing to the very edge of rocky cliffs.

After miles of mountains, rocks and boulders, just past Coos bay, I came to the Oregon Dunes. Miles and miles of massive sand dunes reside between the beach and the mountains. Several lovely inland lakes that were formed as the result of dune buildup grace the area.

It was another day of incomparable natural beauty. Each day's scenic wonder seems to top the last. Like beautiful art, the unique appeal of each place stands on its own. For most of the trip I encountered relatively light traffic and very little population.

I stopped for the night at a motel facing the Pacific in the city of Newport. Newport is a resort town with a long sandy beach. I had a fine meal at Quimby's, a casual, fine dining establishment. The entree was outstanding. "Char grilled local halibut, served over walla walla sweet onion and Oregon dried pear marmalade, topped with northwestern tree-ripened peach salsa" After dinner I was able to watch a dramatic Pacific sunset, something that has happened only a few times in my life.

Hell:

It was cold. I kept layering up until I had on three shirts, a leather jacket, two layers of gloves, a beanie under my helmet, and a scarf around my neck. This in late July.

It was wet. It didn't really rain but for about 3 hours I had this mist in my face that made the cold colder.

It was windy. As I was leaving the community of Gold Beach there was a sign with a light that said "high winds next 28 miles when flashing". It wasn't flashing. Either the light was broken or Oregonians measure high winds differently. I was seriously blown around. Sharp, unexpected wind gusts came off the sea at times, and off the mountain at others. I tried to stay in the center of my lane to avoid being blown into the side of the mountain or the lane of oncoming traffic. It was frightening at times, but only lasted for a hour.

While I was having dinner I asked my waiter, Tom, how it was living is such a beautiful place. He replied, I like it but you have to put up with the constant rain in the winter. I asked what he meant by constant. He told me that it pretty much rains all the time from December to July. No wonder it's so green. I then asked Tom if that meant people quit coming in the winter. He said, "no, they come for the storms in the winter, 60 mph winds are the norm here." Now I know what they mean when they say high winds.

up the coast

2007-07-28T22:52:00.000-05:00

I had a fine nights sleep at Sea Gull Inn, and woke up to the sound of the waves lapping the shore and the distant moan of a foghorn. I walked to the edge of the high bluffs between the village and the sea and was delighted to see a rock formation that created an arched opening. The town was unspoiled and peaceful and had many more B&B's than the 6 I found online. There was a cute little church and water catchment cisterns all over town creating a picturesque scene.

Jim and his wife Ayla took over the Sea Gull only about a month ago and are just getting used to running a B&B. The breakfast they brought to the room was delicious including a homemade strawberry coffee cake and fresh local fruit. (even in CA, the CA peaches aren't as tasty as GA peaches). By 8:30 I was one US 1 headed up the CA coast.

The rugged northern California coast is spectacular. I was riding high up the mountain, back down to sea level, then up again. Huge boulders and rock formations projecting out of the sea, shear cliffs and sandy beaches, all serve to create an inspiring landscape/seascape. Curve after curve, hill after hill, each new scene was special. After about a hour of riding the shoreline the road curves it's way up into the hills and into the forest of Redwoods. Nothing I can say can convey the splendor or scale of these awesome trees. The forest is so dense with trees it is hard to understand how the all can take adequate nourishment from the rocky soil they rise out of.

At one overlook I met a couple of Harley riders, and we visited for a few minutes about the satisfaction that comes from travel by motorcycle. Retired fireman, father Don and current fireman, daughter Susan have a great time riding together. They were on a 4 day jaunt without a specific itinerary and were enjoying the scenery as much as I.

All the towns hugging the coastline were scenic, even Fort Bragg which looked like a fine place to live. After a couple of hours of riding I came to the Avenue of the Giants, a ride through a forest of massive Redwoods. I thought I was in an enchanted forest and expected Frodo or Bilbo or some other Hobbit to appear and invite me for tea. That didn't happen, but I stopped at the Chimney Tree Coffee House for lunch, and went inside the giant redwood Chimney tree. The tree is hollow inside, (you can stand inside and see out the top) but continues to live. At the restaurant I had my first burger of the trip, and it turned out to be one of the best I've ever had.

The ride up the coast and through Humboldt Redwood State Park was cool and comfortable all day long. I had on three layers of shirts and kept them on all day. US 101 is a terrific road, sometimes 4 lanes, sometimes 2. In the 4 lane sections the curves are wide and sweeping , in the 2 lane segments I was riding through tight curves and switchbacks. It was another sunny, scenic day with great roads. What more could a biker ask for?

My goal was to make it to Oregon before stopping for the night. I made just across the state line to Brookings, OR , a pretty little harbor town. I needed to do laundry and I wanted to find a B&B with laundry facilities. The woman at the first B&B I called said I could do my laundry, and they were only two blocks from the bench I was sitting on. South Coast Inn is a lovely Craftsman style home with beautiful, informal gardens. Just outside the sliding door from my room to patio is a stone fountain. As the water passes over the stones it sounds just like a burbling brook. I was lulled to sleep by the sound and had a peaceful nights sleep.

For dinner I went to a little sushi place named Kitanishi that had the best seaweed salad I've had.

Michael and Cheryl Clines have owned and operated South Coast Inn for just over a year and have it humming nicely. To say they made me feel at home would be an understatement. Michael and I had a wide ranging discussion covering everything from parenthood, to the the middle east mess. Cheryl is a kind pretty woman with a wide smile, who is a nurse practitioner at the max. security prison nearby. She says M is the innkeeper and she just helps. It looked to me like she helps a lot. I was thankful to able to do my laundry since I was wearing my last pair of clean underwear. M had coffee ready early and prepared a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit and french toast w/ homemade blueberry syrup. Breakfast was served to all guests in the dining room and provided the opportunity to visit with other travelers. If I ever travel this way again I'll definitely stay at the South Coast Inn again. Michael and Cheryl are people of faith and it shows.

If you haven't travelled the rugged west coast shoreline, or been amongst the magnificent redwoods, make this a destination. I want to bring BJ back here.

to the sea

2007-07-28T09:14:00.000-05:00

When I left the Hotel Charlotte and continued down the mountain my plan was to work my way north and then west. After 3 lovely hours of traveling the foothills, through little western towns like Senora, I decided to change the plan. I had enjoyed the ride but made only ninety miles. I headed toward Sacramento.

Before I headed west I had a memorable encounter. As I pulled to the pump I noticed a new Electra glide at the next pump over. I had dismounted and was removing my helmet when the rider came toward me with a huge grin on his face, I thought he was going to tell me about something funny, so I was surprised when he said, "you speak french?" I said "no", as I shook my head. He lifted up his map and pointed to Yosemite National Park. Although he spoke no other English words except, goodbye, when he left, we were able to communicate. He found out how to get to Yosemite and I found out he was from France and was traveling to some of our national parks. I was able to discern that he had just come from the Grand Canyon. He pointed out that I had gotten a lot of sun. From the time he walked up, to the time he rolled out on his new Harley, the grin never left his face. I couldn't help but think he was having an even better time than me. It's amazing how much you can say with pointing and gesturing.

When I hit the valley floor it was after noon, 95 degrees and getting hotter. Sacramento slowed me up and the ride across the valley was boring and uncomfortable. While bored, I did say thanks for all the food produced in this place. It it one of the most productive agricultural areas in our country.

I was happy when I started up the mountain toward Silver Lake. Silver Lake is a massive reservoir with a winding coastline hugged by the road I was traveling. After the valley it was a pleasant change but it was still very hot. I couldn't wait to get to my destination of Ukiah where I hoped to find a B&B. I found a coffee shop and booted up. I went to B&B Online only to find there were none in Ukiah and the ones close by were in Mendocino, about 50 miles straight west and on the coast. I called the Sea Gull Inn in the town of Mendocino aand booked his last room. I found there were at least 6 B&B's in Mendocino, so I surmised it would be a cool place.

As I was packing up my computer, the innkeeper Jim Douglas called to say that he rode a BMW and there was a direct route over the mountain that would be fun on a bike. I took him at his word, found the road and headed for the mountains that separates Ukiah from the northern CA coast.

Just before I started up the mountain there was a sign that indicated the road would be very curvy for the next 28 miles. That was the last sign I saw for 26 miles. Up and down, around and around, I went from dropping curves, to switch back after switch back. It would have been fun, except the road was rough with bumps, potholes and loose gravel. I started thinking BMW riders must be more aggressive than Harley riders. When I finally finished this challenging ride I still had 16 more more miles to go. Thankfully, this was a NICE, winding road with signs indicating those curves that required a slowdown.

About 90 minutes after leaving Ukiah I arrived at Sea Gull Inn in the quaint village of Mendocino. It is a cool place. Settled in the mid 1800's , the commercial area and many of the homes date back to the 19th century. The Sea Gull dates from 1878 and has been an Inn since the 1960's. I was greeted by Jim and shown my room, which over looked the Pacific. He asked how the ride went and I said it was challenging, and that the road coming over the top had been extremely rough. He said, "oh, I never rode that part, I only rode to Comche", (where the good road started). Those BMW riders aren't that tough.

It felt great to see the Pacific. I am looking forward to riding beside it.

Jim directed me next door to Mendocino Cafe when I asked for a dinner suggestion. I had the Thai Hot Pot and it was outstanding. It was a huge coconut curry and lemon grass based soup chocked full of fresh, organic veggies and free ranch chicken breast. It was spiced just right.

hell to heaven part II

2007-07-27T23:22:00.001-05:00

I HAVE NOW POSTED PHOTOS ON THE HELL TO HEAVEN POST!

I have more to say about yesterday's ride. I forgot to mention the heady aroma of the Ponderosa pine. At least 1/2 the time in the park I was riding in this fragrant forest. It was not a strong scent, rather faint, but constant. This, plus the big temperature swings between the mountain top and the valley floor, made the experience more sensual. Even the sound or lack of it heightened my awareness in every way. I felt much peace in this place.

Twice yesterday, I stopped for a couple of those meditation moments I mentioned before. On the way toward Tioga Pass, before the park entrance, I stopped beside the stream rushing down the mountain. I stopped to listen to rush of the water. It was running fast over the boulders in the riverbed, making it loud and satisfying. In the sound of that rushing stream I heard this message, "You have spent your whole life trying to finish something, to achieve some goal, to make something happen. Quit rushing and making noise like this stream. It's in such a hurry that it passes the beauty by that surrounds it, just like you do. Hurry no more."

On the other meditation stop I was at Tioga Pass and could see down both sides of the mountain. It is a special place to be. So high you can see as far as it is possible for your eyes to see, surrounded by the unspoiled, incomparable wonder of nature. Knowing in your heart of hearts that this is no accident, this world is made this way for a reason. This was CREATED to sustain us and for us to take care of. To screw it up the way we are doing is shameful. I hear by resolve to do ALL I can to help preserve this wonderful world we've been blessed with. After a few minutes with these lofty thoughts, a line from Bob's "Roll me Away" came to mind, "standin alone on a mountain top looking out at the great divide. I could east, I could go west, it was all up to me to decide. Just then, I saw a young hawk flying and my soul began to rise." Then I thought, "How blessed am I to be able to stand on a mountain top and decide." Thank you God, and thank you Barbara.

Hell to heaven

2007-07-27T09:53:00.000-05:00

Thanks, to all who have made comments. It makes taking the time to write this down worthwhile. Keep them coming, it motivates me.

Reno is not a bad city. But, it is a city and it is hot. I stayed at the Siena Hotel Spa Casino and it was nice. I played a little blackjack (lost $60.), worked on the blog and had a fine meal. Next to a good night's sleep, the highlight of my stop in Reno was the meal at Lexie's. I never expected to have such fine food. The most interesting dish I had was the, "lobster in escargot butter".

I slept in and didn't get going until about 10 am. It was a hot and unpleasant ride on US 395 until I passed through Carson City (a pretty downtown) and started up the mountain out of Carson Valley. After rising from the valley about 1000 feet, I came over a little pass and looked down on lovely Topaz lake at the north end of Antelope Valley, a lush valley of farms. The various greens of the valley stand in stark contrast to brown, barren mountains rising up on either side. From then on the trip to Yosemite was a relaxing, nearly traffic less, wind up, on a good road. Just before dropping into the valley where US 395 meets CA 120 at Lin Vining there is an incredible view of Mono Lake and the valley below. As soon as I made the turn on CA 120 I began my ascent toward Tioga Pass and the entrance to Yosemite. It was the beginning of a mesmerizing journey.

At the park entrance I got the "Senior Pass", a lifetime pass to the all national parks, for $10. It is available to all over 62. Thanks Barry for telling me about it.

If I've ever visited a place as majestic as Yosemite National Park I don't remember it. From the cool glacier-topped mountains to hot valley floor the awesome beauty of nature's best surrounded me. From the mountain lakes to the elegant meadows, to the humongous boulders, to the elegant Ponderosa pine, to the giant sequoia, to the dramatic cliffs to the edifying waterfalls, each new visual treat was as good as the last. To try to describe the impact of the views is like trying to describe what it feels like to hear my grandchild say, "I love you grandpa." It is overwhelming, and beyond words. The dramatic, rugged beauty of today's ride surpasses anything I have yet to experience. There were a lot of people in the park and most of the campgrounds and parking lots were full but traffic was never a problem and I was able to ride at my own speed for most of the trip. I know there is a lot to see that I didn't and I want to come back with Barbara and maybe some grandkids. Yosemite National Park is as good as it gets. Beauty to beauty, the high Sierras is a place all Americans should visit. So far this is the high point of my ride.

After about 5 hours in the park I exited the other side, again on CA 120, I headed for Groveland and my reservation at the Hotel Charlotte. A 10 room B&B the Hotel Charlotte also provides rooms in the adjacent Pine Valley area, where I had a quiet peaceful king room including micro, mini-fridge and Directv. A buffet style breakfast is provided in the Charlotte's restaurant which also serves lunch and dinner.

Hotel Charlotte is owned and operated for the past 4 years by Lynn and Victor Upthayrove. Victor is the chef and was busy in the kitchen. Lynn was helpful in providing local info, not only to me bu to everyone having breakfast. She knows a lot about the area and the park and is happy to share her knowledge.

I love the little town of Groveland which is also home to Iron Door Saloon, the oldest liquor serving establishment in California.

My advice to everyone, visit Yosemite and stay at the Hotel Charlotte. You'll have the visual treat of a lifetime and you'll be well treated.

mountain tops

2007-07-26T01:17:00.000-05:00

One of the things I enjoyed about today's ride was the stops I made on the mountain tops. On "The Loneliest Road in America" there are few places to pull off, but whenever possible, I would stop at mountain passes, just to listen to the silence. One of the things that modern life brings us is too much noise. To be in a place where the loudest sound is that of your exhaust cooling, is to be in a place of peace. I like to think of them as meditation moments . One one occasion today I said "talk to me God, I'm as close to you as I can be." He replied, " listen to your heart."

This journey is as spiritual as it is physical. As I get closer to the world that God created I get closer to God. It is not a smack you in the face experience, rather, it is a I'm here and all is well experience.

mountain to mountain to reno

2007-07-25T18:56:00.000-05:00

I got caught up on the blog this morning and left Ely (Elee) around 9;00. I filled up with gas and asked the attendant, "how far to Reno?" He said "320 miles and 7 mountain passes." I asked if gas could be had. He said, "yes" naming 3 places. I headed down US 50 toward Reno. Like old US 66 is known as the "mother road", US 50 through this stretch is known as the "the loneliest road in America" Lonely it is, the only towns between Ely and Fallon, a 260 mile haul, are the western towns of Eureka and Austin. Both of these little towns looked reasonably prosperous and self sufficient. Nice places to live, in spite of the fact that they are in the middle of nowhere.

The guy at the gas station was right, there are 7 mountain passes with the highest being the last, just before Austin. Here the road drops sharply through a series of 35 mph twisties. Over the first 200 miles the road alternated between 15 to 40 mile stretches of flat grassland, with roads as straight as an arrow, and big sweeping turns up and down over the mountain passes. The turns on most of the mountains were the kind you can take at 60 to 70 mph, with good visibility. Not as pretty as riding the Colorado Rockies but equally satisfying. On the flat runs, I could see for miles and miles and miles. The first hint of a oncoming vehicle in the distance was a glint of sunlight off it's windshield. It seemed forever before a vehicle began to take shape. Is it a car, a truck, a bike? It seemed like another forever before I could tell what it was. There were so few that it was an event. There were more bikes than cars

or trucks, and more trucks than cars. All bikers got the biker wave, all but one returned it. Although the scenery was beautiful if bleak, running down an arrow straight highway at 80 mph on cruise can take away your edge. I do my neck exercises, some bike stretches, and crank up the ipod. The best thing I learned to do to keep me on my toes is to see how far I can go at 80 mph with no hands. It's good practice for when you want to take pictures while riding.

After Austin the lonely road continues weaving between the mountains on arid grasslands. The most interesting sight during this segment was Sand Mountain. It is a mountain of sand backing up to another rock mountain. The sand is as white as that on our beaches. Suddenly about 60 miles from Reno the road drops into a green valley where Fallon is located. The transition from dry, arid, expanses almost bereft of vegetation, to a lush valley where the smell of fresh mowed hay and cow flop are in the air, was dramatic. After Fallon the last leg into Reno was boring and very hot.

I'm going to pamper myself tonight and am staying at the Siena Hotel Spa Casino. I booked a massage for the morning before I head toward Yosemite.

I-70

2007-07-25T08:25:00.001-05:00

I decided to ride I-70 from Eagle, CO west because I wanted to make some time, but also because it follows the Colorado River down the mountain. Following the river as it winds through the valleys and canyons it created was exciting. There were moments that I felt as one with the river. For the most part I avoid the interstates, but I'm glad I didn't avoid I-70, it was the most fun I've ever had on an E-way. As I approached Grand Junction the valley widened and the mountains were less dramatic.

I had no idea what to expect as I headed into Utah, but to say I was pleasantly surprised would be an understatement. As the green of the Colorado Rockies disappeared in my rear view mirror I was presented with the most beautiful desolate landscape imaginable. Massive rock formations, barren mountains, rugged canyons, mesas and buttes galore. The varying colors of the strata are as dramatic as any I've ever seen. For over 100 miles there was no civilization, no services and no exits except at some ranches. I know living here would be impossible, because there is nothing to sustain life. At the same time the visual impact over every hill and around every curve was awe inspiring. I had to stop at least 1/2 dozen times to take in some of the more impressive views. It was one wow after another. It was akin to having a constant parade of beautiful, unadorned woman passing before your eyes. No clothes, no makeup, no jewelry, only what God gave them. And each of these beauties different from the last. Different coloring, different shapes, different smiles, yet each one so lovely you can't take your eyes away. (Why would you want to?).

After getting off I-70 in central Utah the terrain changed and I was in the high plains with mountains in the distance. The sky began to darken and the air began to cool and I knew rain was coming. I got on my rain gear and was prepared for the 3 separate storms I encountered. By the time I arrived at my destination of Ely, NV I had dried out but was beat after a 540 mile day.
Ely is an old mining town, that had almost become a ghost town until a mine opened back up a couple of years ago. It is now enjoying a bit of a resurgence with the mine and a new power plant to be built nearby. While there are still plenty of vacant and rundown buildings, many of the little motels and restaurants are being refurbished and reopened. I had to try several little fifties motels before I landed at the Grand Central Motel, advertised as clean and comfortable. It was as advertised, and I had a comfortable night, with all the comforts including free Wi-Fi for $40. Aside from the mine Ely's best know locale is The Nevada Hotel and Gambling Hall. In addition to rooms, the old hotel house a Casino and a very good home cooking style restaurant. The owner is a biker and encourages other bikers to visit. He even has a few old bikes on display in the Casino.

I'm looking forward to a lighter ride today and hope to find a good massage in Reno. Please, no rain!

Rocky Mountain High

2007-07-23T20:15:00.001-05:00

It was nice to be able to spent another night with Ryan and Tina. We got to hang out, something we haven't done since our Panama Trip 1 1/2 years ago. Their celebration party started about 4 and was still going when Ryan and I went to bed. They have an eclectic assortment of friends and neighbors with all sexual orientations being represented. It was a very cosmopolitan and interesting group. We played a neat game called LCR. It was fun and can be played while socializing. Thanks, Ryan and Tina for your hospitality and good luck with your move.

I hit the road out of Denver at about 8:15 headed for Estes Park and the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. I started getting excited after passing through Boulder and starting into the foothills. I've been here before but never on 2 wheels, so I knew I was in for something special. I was not disappointed. It was all I expected and more. Words like spectacular, magnificent, and awesome should be reserved for places like RNMP. No words, no photo, not even a film can convey, what it feels like, what it smells like or what it looks like. Doing it on the back of "Bobbie J" was far better than in a car. Feeling the change in the temperature, feeling the air thin, smelling the evergreens, feeling the sun, hearing the wind, all enhance the experience. I also got an adrenaline rush riding along the edge of a drop off of thousands of feet with no guard rails.

My trip through the park took about 2 1/2 hours and landed me in Grand Lake where I met our old friend Barry Brandt. (he's old but not that old). He and his wife Karyn hosted a bible study in their home when we all lived in Mandeville, LA 15 or more years ago and we became friends. Their example inspired us to continue the study in our home, after they moved to OK City. Barry looks great, is as enthusiastic about Jesus as ever, as much in love with his wife as ever, and loves being a Grandpa to 10. I was sorry to miss Karyn but really enjoyed seeing Barry for the first time in too many years.

After leaving Barry I continued on secondary roads working my way through the mountains south and west until I reached I-70 around Eagle, CO. It is so wonderful to ride the mountains. Around every corner or over every hill is a different view, a new curve, or a group of Elk grazing. I experienced temperatures from the 100's to the 40's, elevations from 5000 feet to 12,000 feet, views of: mountain peaks, lush meadows, rushing rivers, snow filled glaciers, mountain lakes,and vistas beyond description. God may be everywhere but he sure feels closer when you are in the clouds. I concluded my day on Sunlight Mountain near Glenwood Springs. The ride down the mountain through Glenwood Canyon into Glenwood Springs was a thrill. Coming down through sweeping turns at 70 mph with canyon walls rising up on both sides was as big a kick as riding a roller coaster. I couldn't help myself from going "wooooo"!

The Sunlight Mountain Inn is up Sunlight Mountain at the foot of the ski area about 10 miles from town. The ride up the mountain was nice but I had to do it twice to get some dinner and have internet access. The Inn is an older facility that has not been well kept. While the towels were fine, the water was hot and the bed was comfortable, the furnishings were tacky, worn and dingy. The things I liked best were the homemade cookies provided, and the dark and quiet of the mountain setting. No TV, no cell phone service, and no internet access were ok for a night but I wouldn't like it for long. I got started out early so I didn't stay for breakfast. I wouldn't stay here again.

Denver and Boulder

2007-07-21T17:37:00.000-05:00

I arrived at the home of my brother Ryan and his wife Tina Friday, just after noon in downtown Denver. They currently live in an area called, River Front Park . This area has been developing for the past few years with new condos, apartments and brownstones. It is a park setting with views of both the downtown and surrounding area. Downtown Denver is very nice and is growing. The downtown has a vibrant feel to it even after the work day is done. Many restaurants, the country's second largest performing arts center, pro football, basketball and hockey all add up to a lot of action. Ryan and Tina have lived in the city for about 4 years and have enjoyed it. However they have decided to move to Cincinnati to be closer to their children and grandchildren. They have had their brownstone for sale for over a year and were happy to receive, accept and close on the sale all within 1 1/2 weeks, with the money being transferred on Friday. It is great to see them both, especially at a time when I can help them celebrate the sale. There is a party Sunday and I am looking forward to meeting more of their friends. We had dinner last night at a very cool restaurant called Oceanaire, with their good friend and realtor Dina Pastorini. They specialize in seafood that is flown in fresh daily. It is part of a rapidly growing upscale chain, located primarily in major cities.

Today I went to visit Barbara's relatives in Boulder. Whenever I have gone from Denver to Boulder, I have been blown away by the mountain view as Hwy 36 begins to drop into the valley below. Today was no exception. Majestic! Cousin, Sue Martin and husband Phil were prepared to put me for the night in their suburban Boulder home. Phil is in the process of adding on and is admirably doing ALL the work himself with a little help, from his wife, son and an occasional friend. Sue arranged to pick up her brother Jim Sherman and we were off to pick up uncle Chuck and have lunch. Around a year ago uncle Chuck moved out of his house next to Jim and into an apartment with assisted living services on site if needed. He doesn't drive but still gets out and about several times a week on the facility van. While Uncle Chuck has slowed down physically, he's still sharp mentally and enjoys his new home. We had a nice lunch, a nicer visit and I was on my way back to Denver to continue my visit with Ryan and Tina. The visit with the and Martins was short but sweet. It is amazing how much you can catch up on in a short time.

It has been nice having short rides for the past couple of days and getting some relaxation with family. When I leave here Monday I will be doing serious miles until I see Barbara in Vancouver on August 1st. I am beginning to miss my wonderful, awesome, beautiful, sweet, loving and sexy wife. Being around people the past three days, that both love and are loved by Barbara, makes it lonelier, because these are all people we almost always see together.

In response to Vonna, who asked if I posed for the Geezers calender, the answer is no. I offered, but they said I was to young and good looking to qualify.

Visiting Colorado

2007-07-20T07:58:00.000-05:00

I stayed at a Comfort Inn last night, not the best as a B&B but not bad for a motel. I was less than a mile from Outpost Harley where I had an appt. to get "Bobby J" serviced. I was out of there by noon and on my way to visit and spend the night with my "daughter", Denise Inman and her husband David. I arrived at Inman Manor about 1:30 and was welcomed with a garage for "Bobby J" , and a queen bed with private bath for me. Denise outdid my other B&B stays by providing my favorite treat, dark chocolate and cashews.

D&D took me around some of Colorado Springs, a sprawling city with a lovely downtown, where we had lunch at the Ritz Cafe. We drove out through Colorado City and Manitou Springs, which is where Colorado Springs started, and looked to be the most interesting part of the city. We drove around beautiful Glen Eyre Castle, which was the home of Colorado Springs founder General Palmer, and is now owned by the Christian organization The Navigators and houses Christian retreats.

The highlight of our short tour was a visit to the Garden of the Gods. The majestic beauty of the awesome red sandstone rock formations is amazing. The area is preserved as a park where no admission is charged, which was a stipulation of the former owner when he donated it. In addition to the beauty of the rock formations, like praying hands or kissing camels, are the beauty of the views to the valley below. It was truly an awe inspiring sight.

After our tour we returned to the Inman abode where David prepared an outstanding dinner of chocolate filet mignon, baked potatoes, seasoned green beans, and for dessert, fresh strawberries slightly sweetened and sprinkled with cinnamon. Yum, Yum. I know, you are thinking, chocolate steak? But it is delicious. Surprisingly, the chocolate marinade enhances the steak flavor and does not overpower.

It was fantastic to be able to see Denise in her new surroundings with her loving husband. Although they like Colorado Springs D&D are looking forward to moving to a cabin in Pagosa Springs, where they feel there are more opportunities for their work, and is a more suitable place for the children they plan to have.

After a yummy breakfast of banana pancakes, I'm off to visit my brother Ryan and his wife Tina in Denver. As I was leaving Colorado Springs I got a good look at Pike's Peak peeking through the clouds.

Albuquerque to Taos to Pueblo

2007-07-17T18:20:00.000-05:00

Nate and Katie arrived at the B&B about midnight, as expected, exhausted, as expected, so we all went to bed after about a 15 min. visit.

TUESDAY

Mauger B&B Inn is a beautifully restored Queen Anne with an eclectic assortment of accommodations. Although I didn't occupy it, my favorite room was a big King suite decorated ultra modern. Owner/Innkeeper Tammy Ross and I had a chance to visit while I was awaiting N&K. We discussed the things we were doing that are making our respective businesses succeed. Although Tammy has only been operating her place a year she has a good grasp of what it takes to make it work. Tammy is not the type of innkeeper I expected to find in a restored Queen Anne in downtown Albuquerque. I was expecting the antique loving matronly type, instead Tammy is a young beautiful executive type. Katie had never stayed in a B&B and she loved the place, it's cleanliness, it's bed, it's breakfast.

Downtown Albuquerque is a surprisingly quiet and peaceful downtown. I walked about 8 blocks to dinner and back and felt very safe. We all had a good nights sleep and went down to a gourmet breakfast served buffet style. Include among the many items was spinach souffle, maple sausage, fresh fruit, and homemade granola, all prepared by Tammy who loves to cook.

My visit with N&K was short (about 2hrs.) but sweeeet. It was exciting to able to meet them in the middle, going in different directions. It will be over 2 months before I see them again. I'm so happy the are moving back to N.O. We took some photos and were both on our way by 10:30.

Tammy suggested I take the Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe instead of I25. I did and I'm glad. The is about 50 miles long winding through foothills up the mountain. It was a beautiful ride and I was one with the world. I had virtually no traffic and to my surprise came around a bend and was instantly in the little town of Madrid. It is a lovely little mountain town that was taken over by artists, hippies, bikers and the like in the sixties and has turned into mecca of galleries and shops. It has maintained it's rough western character and is the kind of place that unique individuals settle. I was told that this particular part of NM has more homes percentage wise off the grid than any other place in the US.

As I was rolling slowly through Madrid taking in the sights, I came upon this little chuck wagon with a hot coffee sign out front. There was just enough room to pull my bike in so I stopped. It wasn't until I started walking toward the wagon that I noticed what looked to be 3 genuine cowboys sitting around an old wire reel in metal chairs. They were all my age or older and all had serious facial hair. Tending the chuck wagon was another cowboy older than the others. I thought this must be a movie set. As I waited for my coffee I saw a poster advertising for Madrid Geezers to volunteer to pose nude for a Geezer calender. As I was chuckling, the old cowboy handed me my coffee and I turned to look at the guys sitting around the wire reel. One of the old cowboys slid out the remaining chair and gestured for me to sit down. As I sat down I noticed another guy handing a photo to one of the cowboys. The guy who'd offered me a chair said , "Are you a geezer, how old are you?" I told him and one of the others said "that'll work".

I said "work for what?" One of them said for our calender and showed me one of the photo proofs for the calender. It was a picture of the guy who had invited me to sit, astride a white horse, naked except for boots and hat. His name is Peter Bassin and he is a real, 68 year old cowboy, running Rhino Ranch, a horse boarding facility. He also showed me another proof of his friend, the 78 year old former cowboy running the coffee wagon. This guy plays a washtub bass, and was posed naked, his booted foot up on the washtub, and his hat covering his male parts. It is encounters like these that make travel so exciting to me. Unexpected, delightful encounters that bring me joy. I got the info. I need to make sure I get one of the calenders for Barbara's Christmas present. After looking at these guys for 12 months I think she'll love me even more.

Santa Fe is a lovely city, but I've been there so I didn't stop and headed toward Taos. The ride continued to be fantastic with awesome views, beautiful colors and interesting rock formations. They call New Mexico "The Land of Enchantment" and I was certainly enchanted on my ride. As I was coming down the mountain about 10 miles outside of Taos I came upon road construction. After sitting at a dead stop roasting my brain in 98 degree heat we started to move at a snails pace. I had a massage scheduled at my destination, and after the road work slowdown I arrived with just enough time to wash off the road grime before getting my massage.

My reservation was for the Touchstone Inn and Spa. The Touchstone buildings are traditionally

styled adobe structures, that include owner/artist Bren Price's gallery as well as the B&B and spa facilities. After Bren showed me to my room, I rushed to keep my massage appt. Although the Inn is within 1 mile of the Taos Plaza it is tucked back off the road amongst some mighty big trees. I liked the surroundings, I liked the massage, I liked the darkness and I liked the breakfast. I did not like the room, it was not air conditioned and it had poor ventilation. While it was cool and pleasant outside, it was hot as blazes inside. I didn't like the vibe. I probably wouldn't return. Bren Price is a gifted artist. I like her art better than her B&B.

WEDNESDAY

Taos is a pretty little town without tall buildings without billboards, and pretty much without fast food. It is one of those fairy tale towns where there are many art galleries, good restaurants, expensive shopping. Like, Carmel, Ca, or Estes Park, CO, or Bar Harbor, ME they seem to good to be true. I do love however that it is well preserved, well maintained and blends with the environment instead of replacing it. I rode around town and visited the Taos Pueblo, then headed toward Raton just after noon. I had another wonderful day of riding through the mountains. I was once again enchanted by my surroundings. As I crossed the mountain I experienced a totally different New Mexico. Vegetation along the mountain stream next to the roadway was lush and green. Even the forest rising up the mountain on both sides was heavily forested with beautiful evergreens. I stopped beside the stream just to hear it, and nothing else.

The trip down the other side was over too quickly, and I once again found myself in the other NM. The one with the flat grasslands ,with bluffs, plateaus, and buttes in the distance. As I burned my way to Raton it felt like I was in a Sauna.

Coming over Raton Pass is always a thrill but, much more so on a motorcycle. The stretch of I25 coming down from the pass is the most enjoyable piece of interstate I've ridden. It was HOT today and I was happy to arrive in Pueblo, Co where I am going to get "Bobbie J" serviced before going to visit Denise and David in CO Springs.

Sunday and Monday

2007-07-15T15:07:00.000-05:00

The great thing about traveling the secondary roads, which Old Rt. 66 became after the Interstates were built, is that you get to see small town America. You see many towns that are dead or dying while other towns flourish. But, mostly you get to see what made America and how it is constantly changing. The thing that makes Rt. 66 different is that there is an attempt to preserve some of the past for travelers of the future. The other thing about the back roads is that for the most part, except through the cities, the traffic is light.

Sunday I went to the National Rt. 66 museum in Elk City, There wasn't a lot to it but it gave me not only an understanding of the history of Rt. 66 but of how transportation developed in this country. Mostly I rested, read caught up on blog photos and made reservations. The only place for dinner within 20 miles was a Sonic, so Vikki took pity on me and shared some fresh produce from her sister's garden

After my second restful night at The Rosebud Cottage I hit 66 at about 7:30. Much of Rt. 66 is really I40. You just keep getting on and off the old road as you come to the towns. About 30 minutes out the sky began to turn black in the west. I stopped under an overpass and put on my rain gear. 10 minutes later it started to come down steady but not too hard. 2 hours later I rode out from under a black cloud into sunshine. 30 minutes later I saw nothing but sunshine so I shucked the rain gear. I kept looking for "Radiator Springs". I'm not sure what states it's in. Maybe my grandchildren can post where it is on my blog. I want to meet Mater.

The Texas panhandle is a pretty unexciting landscape, but I did see this hemispheres biggest cross and a huge windmill farm. The other thing I experienced while crossing this little chunk of Texas was the frequent aroma of BS, I'm talking the genuine stuff folks, not just me talking.

I know I inhaled the aroma of bovine poop from at least 4 different breeds. My personal favorite being the smokey aroma, with a hint of blackberry common to Black Angus flop. Seriously, when you are on a bike you smell it all. From the sweet smell of fresh mowed hay, to the gag a maggot smell of the chicken farms across AL,MS,AR.

Although quite barren the New Mexico landscape is more appealing than western OK or the TX panhandle. The mesas and plateaus, the red rocks, the desert colors of terra cotta, orange and beige, peppered with bushes and stunted trees all add up to an austere beauty.

I arrived in Albuquerque about 4:00 Mtn, time to surprisingly light traffic. I easily found Mauger Bed & Breakfast Inn by the directions provided on thier web site. I found my keys as instructed and got unloaded.

I am now awaiting the arrival of our son Nathan and his lovely wife Katie. They are moving back to New Orleans from Los Angeles. They will get here about midnight, so we'll say hi, sleep, have breakfast and be on our way in different directions. It will be short but worth it since it will be football season before I see them again. GO SAINTS!

Oklahoma

2007-07-15T10:42:00.000-05:00

Mike fed me breakfast and we were on the road by 8. The morning was pleasantly cool and foggy with very little traffic on 412 as we went from AR into eastern OK. Our ride down OK 10 along the Illinois River was wonderful. We did encounter a few trailers hauling canoes for the many river rafting resorts along a 20 mile stretch. The road was smooth and winding with some beautiful rock outcroppings. Some hanging over the road.

Mike left me in Tahlequah as I headed west in search of old Rte. 66, which I found just south of Tulsa. My ride down 66 was pretty and interesting up to about 40 miles north of OK city where the land begins to flatten and the landscape becomes boring. I did enjoy going through the small towns along 66 my favorite being Chandler. It was very hot with almost constant sunshine and it took me longer than I expected to reach my destination in Sayre.

I arrived at The Rosebud Cottage about 6:30 and was greeted by my hostess Vikki Fowler whose newly remodeled home sits in front of the cottage right on Old Rt. 66.
The Rosebud is comfy, cute and lovely. Decorated in shabby chic with some very special artifacts including an old Maytag and a steamer trunk exactly like one we have from my grandpa. My favorite feature of the cottage (necessary because of space limitations) is the use of a galvanized horse trough combined with corrugated metal wall to create a tub/shower combo. The Rosebud is much more than a B&B room. It is a complete cottage with micro/fridge kitchen, a complete living room, a comfy bedroom with a queen bed. The court yard between the cottage and the house is a work in progress but still a pleasant place to be in the cool of the morning or evening.
Rosebud is located in Sayre, OK on Rt. 66 and if you are traveling east or west around I-40 stay here.It will be much more than a place to stay. I didn't get to Elk City to see the Rt. 66 museum so I'm staying at the Rosebud a second day to do so.

Vikki is a sweet and pretty western OK gal who lives 30 miles from where she was raised. I spent a couple of hours talking to Vikki about the important things in life like family and God. To me meeting complete strangers and departing after a few hours feeling like I've made a friend is one of the most satisfying things about traveling. When you allow yourself to make a spiritual connection with someone even a brief encounter takes on supernatural characteristics.

You'll like it here!

lucky friday the 13th

2007-07-14T04:49:00.000-05:00

As I left Helena Friday morning the sky was overcast and I anticipated more rain. Fortunately, I only had a little more than 300 miles to my destination of Fayetteville. I traveled the back roads past Little Rock and got on I40. I decided to get off after a trucker cut me off twice, then shot me the bird when I passed him. I hadn't been rained on, and was feeling lucky with only about 80 miles to go, so I headed into the mountains. Within 10 minutes the sun shined through the clouds and I knew God was smiling on me. By luck alone I found myself in Ozark National Forest riding the the twisties. With 10 mile an hour switch backs to sweeping curves, it was biker heaven for about 3 hours. I had to slow down for a deer and for a mockingbird chasing a squirrel across the road. I stopped beside a stream to take a break and check my map. As I was getting ready to ride again a trucker stopped at the intersection and I asked him if the road he was coming down ran into 23. He said yes but it was about 15 miles of mountain road. What he didn't tell me was that several of those miles were under construction, and I mean serious construction with dirt, potholes, mud and ruts. Past the construction, however, was some of the best riding I've experienced, with beautiful views, an excellent road and many curves.

As I was coming into Fayetteville on hwy 16 I came upon a sign that said "Fayetteville first home of Bill and Hillary Clinton". I of course turned around and went back and kissed the sign.

I arrived at the lovely home of our friends Mike and Judy Meeks about 5 pm in a very good mood. Mike is batching it while his wife helps their daughter Jennifer with a new baby so we went out to dinner and got to bed reasonably early. Mike was our Sunday school teacher when we lived in Shreveport, La 20 years ago. We've both moved a couple of times and may see each other once every couple of years but being with him was as comfortable as ever.

I believe Northwest AR is some of the prettiest country I've ever traveled. Mike is going to ride with me for a couple of hours in the morning as I head into OK in search of old route 66.

For me it was a lucky 13th with no rain and a fun ride.

day 1 thursday

2007-07-13T06:33:00.000-05:00

I had a great sendoff from Hibiscus with prayers and good wishes from friends and family. As I was pulling away I cranked up my ipod with Bob Seger's "Roll Me Away" My ride through AL and MS was pleasant and uneventful until I reached Greenwood, MS where I entered biker hell. I still had 100 miles to go when the sky turned black and the sky opened up. The last 2 1/2 hours I rode in a steady down pour without a hint of clear sky to be seen.

I arrived at Magnolia Hill B&B in Helena, AR sopping wet at about 7pm. Helena is a pretty little town on the Mississippi river about 50 miles south of Memphis. It's current claim to fame is it's proximity to the casino on the MS side of the river. Magnolia Hill is a big lovely old house sitting on a hill with beautiful gardens next door. Innkeeper Jane Insco was kind enough to let me in through the back so I could get my wet stuff inside quickly. Thanks also, to her friend Robbie who took me to pick up dinner so I didn't need to get back on my bike in the rain.

If you ever have the occasion to visit Helena consider staying at Magnolia Hill. The rooms are comfy and quiet, and Jane fixes an wonderful breakfast.

packed

2007-07-11T13:49:00.000-05:00

Here we are, Bobbie J and I, all packed and ready to go. I have packed enough clothing for 7 days. I have cold weather and rain gear that should keep me warm and dry unless there is unseasonable weather. I have my computer equipped with Sprint mobile broad band. I have my mini digital camara. I have my gps and I have my new carbon fiber (light weight) helmet. I think I've planned well enough to have what I need, but not so well that I can't have a new plan at any time.

I'm leaving at 8 am from Hibiscus where some friends and family are meeting to send me off with prayers and good wishes. I hope to make it somewhere north of Vicksburg close to the MS/AR line tomorrow and plan to be at the home of our fiends, Mike and Judy Meeks in Fayetteville, AR Friday evening. It's close to 900 miles so while not grueling it won't be a leisurely ride. I'm going to wing it as far as lodging for tomorrow but hope I can find a small town B&B in the MS delta.

Thanks to those who have posted on the blog or e-mailed me prayers and wishes for safe travel. Keep them coming!

getting ready

2007-07-07T11:55:00.000-05:00

We just got back from a weeks vacation with two of our sons and their families. Our oldest Warren and his wife Dwan have 3 fun boys; Solomon 12, Samwise 5 and Atticus 3. Our middle Larry and his wife Sharman have 2 girls; Tiffany 19,and Bella 6 plus twin boys Ethan and Luke almost 3. All except Tiffany were with us in Indian Pass where both Larry/Sharman and Kurt/Barbara have vacation houses. We had a spectacular time. I feel extraordinarily blessed to be a grandpa and to be able to spend time with my sons and their families. It was a great vacation in a great locale. If you haven't experienced the forgotten coast of Florida you are missing some of the best of Florida. Check out www.forgottencoastline.com. Also, check out our beach house Funky Palms You might want to visit.

I now have three days to get ready before I leave Thursday and one of those is committed to our grandchildren. Today we got my bike "Bobbie J" (Barbara's nickname) waxed up and ready to go. All that is really left to do is to pack, redo my gps maps and put the route in.

there are those that think it's crazy for a 62 year old to circumnavigate the country alone on a motorcycle, but I think they mostly wish they were as crazy as me. Others have said this trip plus my first tattoo prove that I am going though my second or third adolescence. Barbara on the other hand said this is just a continuation of my first which has never stopped.

I just know I am anxious to get going, while at the same time a little sad that I won't see my family or dogs for nearly two months.

2007-06-23T10:02:00.000-05:00

I am starting this blog to document my trip across the US then Canada on my Harley Road Glide. My plan is to stay primarily at B&B's to research better ways to operate our bed and breakfast, Hibiscus Coffee & Guest House. I will be writing a little bit on each to help other travelers identify some fun places to stay. The photo is Hibiscus 1959 Chevy Suburban hot rod. Those of us who like motorcycles usually like hot rods too. This is my first blog, so please help any way you can.